Category: Environment & Biodiversity

Our greatest assets.

Obituaries in Ice…Obituaries in Ice…

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“Hope plays a crucial role in how we notice and respond to glacial recession—not as a naïve optimism, but as a motivating force that helps communities stay engaged rather than overwhelmed. But hope reframes that experience. It reminds us that while change is happening, our actions still matter…”

– Alison Jenkins, executive director of AWARE

Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) member and longtime Whistler resident Doug Wylie has helped monitor two of our local glaciers consistently for the past two decades.

He has been visiting Wedgemount Glacier since 1984.

“I have a nice picture, actually, standing there. And ice was right in the lake. Quite a ways in the lake,” he says.

In 2011, Wylie began active annual monitoring of Wedge, joining Karl Ricker—an honorary member of the ACC, the highest rank bestowed by the esteemed organization, and part of the first team to complete the Spearhead/Fitzsimmons Traverse in 1964.

“I was really just a chain man. I would hold the end of the tape,” he recalls. “It was all very rudimentary, building with rock cairns and measuring by tape to the edge of the ice … we had no way to measure the depth and see how it was thinning. That has only happened in recent years with modern instruments.”

Wedge Glacier – Sept. 23, 2000. Wylie Collection

The Museum has an extensive collection of photographs and meticulous records gathered over the years from the accumulated observations. Records of loss, reading like obituaries.

“I think the thing that stands out is how [glacier recession has] accelerated,” remarks Wylie.

The Overlord Glacier has been another focus of long-term monitoring. Ricker first measured it in 1986, and Wylie joined him in 2006.

“Every glacier’s different,” notes Wylie, “but … the amount of recession and depth loss in the last half a dozen years has been really dramatic.”

Wylie has also photographed Blackcomb’s Horstman Glacier from the same location each September since the 1980s. “I’ve got a series of these,” he says. “It’s just a mess now … It’s all been happening quicker and quicker. That’s where hope becomes hopeless.”

I am struck hard by his remark. This from a man who continuously has a smile on his face. This from a man I first met in the backcountry, near Russet Lake. This from a man who, at the time of publication, was a week away from his 82nd birthday, and had biked in to meet me, leaving his hybrid vehicle at home: a home designed with a heat exchanger and passive solar system. This from a man who actively practices engaged activism. A man who I suspected, from his actions, was likely motivated by some form of “hope.”

Does he feel hope is hopeless? Is there any way we can reverse this? Or is he just monitoring a downward trajectory? I asked.

“You could be an optimist. You could be a pessimist. Somewhere in there is a realist,” Wylie says. When it comes to global warming and receding glaciers, “I’m a pessimistic realist,” he adds. “Or am I a realistic pessimist? Anyway, take your pick. On a global scale, we’re just not going to fix this. My grandchildren are going to suffer, right? But we still have to behave on a local scale.”

According to Alison Jenkins of AWARE, when people believe their choices can influence outcomes—even in small ways—they’re more likely to participate in climate solutions.

“Hope fuels community behaviours like choosing active transportation, reducing waste, protecting habitats, and advocating for policy change,” she says.

Both AWARE and Wylie point towards the necessity for action and advocacy from the local through to provincial, national and global changemakers. As the ice melts away and river flows dwindle, there is no one glacial recession doesn’t affect.

Photo: Karl Ricker, Bob Brett, and Doug Wylie September 6, 2020. Wylie Collection.

Kayakers as Glacier GaugersKayakers as Glacier Gaugers

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Featured Image: Lyall Featherstonehaugh paddles the Cheakamus River on May 11, 1980, during a demonstration organized for the Whistler Chamber of Commerce to showcase kayaking opportunities in the Whistler area as part of their May Day celebrations. Whistler Question Collection.

Longtime Whistler kayaker Shawn ‘Puddles’ Hughes left me with an interesting concept: he said he viewed his paddling as a way of “recycling the snow.” In the winter he skis, in the summer, he rides the snowmelt down the rivers – sporting an intimate balance with the hydrological cycle. However, the notion of balance is perhaps, now, better replaced with the term ‘dance’ or ‘positioning’…because, as Hughes has experienced firsthand, over the decades, the waterflow levels and patterns have been changing.

I was fascinated. The impact of glacial recession on local skiing and snowboarding has garnered attention with the closing of the Horstman Glacier on Blackcomb for summer camps in 2023, however this was the first time I had had reason to consider the impact on other non-on mountain sports. As the Whistler Museum actively continues to gather oral histories from a generational cross-section of local kayakers, I extended the question to Archer McLeay, a pivotal advocate within and for the paddling community: a relative newcomer on the scene, having lived in the Sea to Sky for 5 years, moving here, however, for the kayaking.

I asked McLeay, if in his handful of years here, he had witnessed the impact of glacier recession in the waters. He unequivocally answered: “It’s drastic.”

This aligns with Hughes’ deduction that “after 40 years of visually watching this, we’re in some trouble.”

McLeay elaborates “ideally … you get a huge snow base, and that’s what’s traditionally happened. […] Normally, there’s just a massive amount of snow up here. It all melts pretty consistently throughout the year, and you should get like a nice long season.” But that has been changing.

“The Cheakamus has got a way bigger glacial head bond, so that one tends to flow all year, regardless of what’s happening,” McLeay remarks. Hughes concurs, “Cheakamus is pretty safe because it does have a fairly big pack, but no, it’s still shrinking as quickly as everything else.”

McLeay continues, “But for all of our snowmelt rivers [the Callaghan is the main one], the snow will melt, and then after that, it’s just feeding on the glacier. So if you have a big heat wave, it’ll come through, and then the snow melts a lot faster than the glacial water, and then you’ll end up with just glacial melt running for the rest of the year. And so the season’s shorter. There’s less water to go along, and then if there’s a heat wave, it’ll just shorten the season just, boom, just in half.”

Hughes breaks it down simply: “when you take a big piece of ice and you keep shrinking [it] down, there’s some part of the day when it’s not going to flow as much as it did when the ice is big. So what’s happening is there’s a thing that I’ve diagnosed as looping…” Hughes premise on looping is based on discovering what the main source of the flow is. His curiosity was sparked after a section of water that he would consistently launch into a 1 pm every day, only became ‘attackable’ at 4 am. He wanted to understand the fluctuation: “Where’s the water really coming from? Cause there’s three rivers that feed this and the gauges we’re reading, it goes up at midnight and then peaks at four in the morning and then starts dropping and it’s gone by like 11.” He had noticed it going from a “concrete amount of water” to dribbles by August. “I did 31 four in the morning attacks on that to really investigate what was going on.”

Observations persist around many of our waterways, bringing a whole new meaning to rapid and rapidly (e)racing.

The Callaghan “tends to flow out”, McLeay notes. He speculates, “a few years ago, I imagine there would be a big enough glacier to feed the river, but now it’s just melted.”

The ‘Fitz’, too, is affected. “Last couple of years we’re running off the glacier.” Hughes points to its dwindling headwaters. Fitzsimmons Creek feeds the Green River. It also is the source for snowmaking – and that demand is steadily increasing. “Imagine what’s going to happen when this thing really tails out because, man, it’s not that far off…” 

Just, imagine.

For kayakers, glaciers are more than distant icefields—they’re the source of every rapid downstream. As the Whistler Museum continues documenting the history of paddling in the Sea to Sky, these oral histories are becoming more than stories about sport. They are records of a landscape changing within a single generation.

Jurassic Park : Blackcomb is 50-70 million years older than Whistler Jurassic Park : Blackcomb is 50-70 million years older than Whistler 

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Featured Image: Prospector Henry ‘Harry’ Horstman arrived in 1913. Though Horstman Glacier and Hut on Blackcomb are named after him, he did not stake any claims on the mountain. Photo: Brock Collection.

‘The Fault of Fitzsimmons’

Whistler and Blackcomb mountains have very different histories.

Their differing stories far predate the 80s and 90s ‘Duel of the Dual Mountains’ which played itself out in past battles to access vaster and more expansive alpine ski terrain, faster (a one-upping between once-independent resorts, jostling for prominence, where the launched weaponry was the 7th Heaven T-Bar with the retaliatory firing of the Peak Chair, followed by 7th Heaven Express and Peak Express)…

We’re not talking decades-ago-differences, here.

Peak Chair. Griffith collection.

We are speaking about epochs, eras, periods… years. Hundreds of millions of them.

We are talking geology and geography: the language of our local landforms.

We are speaking about the background of our backyard rocks: what follows is a barebones breakdown of the basics.

Blackcomb came first. A product of the Jurassic Period, the mountain is about 150 million years old. Blackcomb is formed primarily of hard, salt-and-pepper coloured granodiorite. Granodiorite forms about 80% of the Coast Mountains: igneous rock, developed from cooled and crystallized magma protons. It would be fair to say when venturing on Blackcomb, one is entering Jurassic Park. 

Whistler is about 80 million years old. It is formed of sedimentary, volcanic rock: shale and andesite, deposited in a marine basin during the Cretaceous Period. Fossils can be found high atop its peak. It was once the ocean floor. During the summer, the famed ‘Shale Slope’ appears as a red streak, visible as one rides the Peak Chair: rising through the stratas of geologic upheaval.

“The reason there is such diverse geology crammed together in the Whistler area is that the rocks are exotic and were actually formed in different geological settings, hundreds or thousands of kilometers west and south of where they are now. Over time, they were transported by massive oceanic plates like a conveyor belt to the West Coast, until 100 million years ago when they started to “accrete” (stick on) to continental America,” wrote geologist Steve Carney for the Whistler Naturalists (2023). 

Blackcomb was (as were Wedge, Weart and Cook) pushed up by the Pacific Plate. Whistler rose up due to tectonic action of the Fitzsimmons Fault: the dividing valley line between Blackcomb and Whistler and “a recurring geologic feature in the valley and around the townsite,” according to Fire and Ice, the website spearheading the petition to have the area designated a UNESCO GeoRegion. The Fitzsimmons Fault line runs directly through Whistler’s Ego Bowl and is also clearly exposed along a 4-km stretch of Hwy 99 between Creekside and Whistler Village. It can be identified by its “mineral-rich rocks whose yellow cast is the result of sulfuric gasses circulating over thousands of years deep in the fault zone.”

The Fault, Valley and Creek that runs through it (into Green Lake) is named after prospector Jimmy Fitzsimmons. The miner staked copper claims, and dug for metals – in shafts still visible – along the Singing Pass Trail. 

Just opposite, on Blackcomb’s lower flanks, prominent “gossans” can be seen. Fire and Ice describe them as “outcrops of oxidized and heavily metamorphosed rocks that can indicate the presence of ore deposits.”  

Prospecting forms an active part of the area’s ‘more recent’ history. Whistler was known previously as London Mountain: likely named for the mineral claim “staked for Frederick James Proctor of the London & British North America Mining Co. of Vancouver, in 1903,” according to the BC government. The Horstman Glacier (and hut) on Blackcomb were named after the prospector who arrived in the area in 1913 in search of gold. However, ironically, Horstman did not stake any mining claims on Blackcomb.

Down in the valley,  in the rich wetlands of the Fitzsimmons Delta, the Alta Lake Mining Company began mining in 1916 for iron. The metal originated from the mineral-rich from the towering igneous rocks, and was transported in groundwater and runoff into the lakeside bogs where it oxidized and was deposited as “bog iron.” At its height, the company was producing 150 tonnes of iron per day, which it transported by railway to Squamish, then onward to Washington state. 

From plates to peaks, the local area is one of the most geologically diverse.

For more information about local geological features visit https://fireandicegeoregion.ca and https://www.whistlernaturalists.ca. 

Hope for nature and mental healthHope for nature and mental health

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Featured Image: The author with a Whistler NatureKids Club participant. Photo by Ashley Bordignon

“Even a wounded world is feeding us. Even a wounded world holds us, giving us moments of wonder and joy. I choose joy over despair. Not because I have my head in the sand, but because joy is what the earth gives me daily and I must return the gift.”

-Robin Wall Kimmerer

I believe most Whistler residents care about our more-than-human neighbours, such as bears, birds, and berry bushes. I also realize human-driven environmental harm is causing anxiety for many of us, especially youth. A 2023 study found that 78 per cent of Canadian youth reported climate change impacts their overall mental health. How might we address this?

“The environmental crisis is also a crisis of hope,” says Elin Kelsey, author of Hope Matters. When people feel hopeless, they become apathetic. It’s deeply unfortunate that the media tends to focus on environmental crises, which fuel eco-anxiety and apathy, rather than on evidence-based solutions currently underway.

What brings me hope is nature’s capacity to heal itself. Examples include the steady recovery of the ozone layer and the comeback of humpback whales in the Salish Sea. I’m also inspired by people tackling today’s environmental challenges head-on (for examples, see happyeconews.com). I believe together, we have the power to heal our planet and successfully advocate for our neighbours who cannot.

Kelsey’s book helped me understand that “hope is something we do, not something we wait for.” With that in mind, it’s wonderful to see this community helping young people build relationships with the natural world. When youth are inspired to help nature out of love, it transforms anxiety into empowerment.

More good news: small acts of stewardship can create waves of positive change. Hopeful behaviours to model include those in Whistler’s Climate Change Strategy. Also consider advocating for environmental protection at all levels of government; eating plant-based meals—the single biggest way to reduce our impact; and eco-conscious buying.

Finally, it’s encouraging that Whistler’s Priority Habitat Framework, which includes recommendations to help protect important natural habitats, is available to guide land-use planning at municipal hall.

This is the last in a 10-article series highlighting nature to mark the Resort Municipality of Whistler’s 50th anniversary. Check online for references. Thanks for reading.

The Whistler Museum will continue its long-running Discover Nature program this summer, running at Lost Lake on weekdays in June and July with free, drop-in opportunities to explore Whistler’s unique natural history through hands-on displays and conversations with interpreters. The Museum is also offering A Whistler Nature 101 & Interpretation, a three-day course on May 21, 22, and 28, combining classroom learning, field trips, and hands-on practice. More information is available at whistlermuseum.org.