Category: Tales from Alta Lake

Before the lifts came, Alta Lake was a small resource and summer tourism based community.

Tokum Film NightsTokum Film Nights

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When searching for a place to hold a film screening, a cabin in the woods in probably not the first venue that comes to mind. Tokum Corners, however, hosted multiple screenings of films captured by George Benjamin in the 1970s.

George Benjamin first came to Whistler Mountain on a ski trip in 1968 before moving to the area in 1970. He briefly stayed at Toad Hall before moving into Tokum Corners with Rod MacLeod and John Hetherington. Though they bought the building from Daisy Barnfield for $1,100 (about $6,800 today), they leased the land from BC Rail as it was right beside the train tracks on the southwest end of Alta Lake.

Tokum Corners, as seen across the tracks in 1971. Benjamin Collection.

Tokum Corners had no running water and no electricity when they first moved in. Within the first couple of years, they managed to connect the property to the power lines running through the valley, followed soon after by the addition of a well and water system, though Tokum Corners never was connected to any kind of sewer system. The building itself was once described by Hetherington as “a shack sort of in the woods” and was reportedly often repaired using found materials, creating a somewhat hodgepodge appearance.

Thanks to Benjamin, who at the time was a semi-professional photographer, we have quite a few images of Tokum Corners in the archives. He donated over 8,200 images taken during his time in Whistler to the archives in 2010, all of which have now been digitized and many of which have been shared in social media posts, articles and more. The collection, which includes shots of ski patrol, baseball games, and trips to Squamish to do laundry, provides a candid look at life for some Whistler residents in the 1970s and early 1980s.

A creative approach to entering Alpine Meadows after a flood. George Benjamin Collection.

Along with thousands of photographs, Benjamin also shot 16mm films during his time in the area. He was able to follow along with ski patrol on Whistler Mountain while they worked on avalanche control and captured some impressive slides on film, as well as events and happenings in the valley. They films would be screened at Tokum Corners, usually with a soundtrack (at least one person has told us that Pink Floyd’s 1973 album The Dark Side of the Moon was a fitting accompaniment to avalanches) and viewers crowded in.

Tokum Corners was dismantled by the early 1990s and no trace of the building remains on the site today. Evidence of its importance as a cornerstone of social life in the valley, however, remains in photographs, films, memories, and even “Tokum,” the ski run on Whistler Mountain that got its name from the residence.

An avalanche set off during control on Whistler Mountain. George Benjamin Collection.

Recently, the museum was able to acquire the Benjamin Film Collection and, thanks to the support of the Whistler Blackcomb Foundation, purchase equipment to digitize 16mm film. Last summer, our collections student Liam McCrorie digitized the Benjamin films along with other 16mm films in the archives, such as the collection of Jim McConkey’s films that he donated in 2016. This spring, the museum will be hosting a couple of different events to share these films, so be sure to keep an eye out for upcoming announcements soon!

Fishing Alta LakeFishing Alta Lake

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Before Whistler became known as a ski resort, Alta Lake was known as a summer and fishing destination, drawing visitors and summer residents each year to join the relatively small population of residents who stayed in the area throughout the year. Summers were busy and groups such as the Alta Lake Community Club (ALCC) and Alta Lake Sailing Club regularly hosted events during the season, including dances, regattas, and a Fish Derby.

Fishing was a popular activity for both residents and visitors to Alta Lake and getting to eat what they caught could turn into a social occasion. For David Fairhurst, whose parents owned Cypress Lodge and who was a child at Alta Lake in the 1960s and 1970s, fishing was also something to do at a time when there were relatively few children in the area and very few organized activities. As David remembered in an interview earlier this year, “You could go and do your own thing… Myself, I used to spend a lot of time fishing, tromping around the creeks and the lakes and stuff.”

David Fairhurst shows off Pine mushrooms, rather than fish. Whistler Question Collection, 1979.

According to Carol Fairhurst, her brother grew up fishing from “the day that he could see a fish” and he and their father would be out in a boat fishing all the time. Both David and Carol remember there being lots of fish. As David recalled, “Every body of water was teeming with fish” and he would catch Rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, Bull trout, and Kokanee. Most of the fish that David remembered catching were average size trout, though he did remember a few Rainbow trout that were sixteen to eighteen inches long, which were considered “really big fish.”

Some of the fish would be eaten fresh, some frozen, and others smoked. This abundance of fish meant that the freezers at Cypress Lodge and the Fairhurst family home would sometimes fill up. Florence Petersen, who was a close friend and neighbour of the Fairhurst family, wrote in 2006 that “Knowing that Andy [Petersen] liked to BBQ fish on the hibachi, David would come over every so often to ask if it was ‘time for a fish fry?’ We knew that this was the sign that he needed another freezer to store his catch!”

Cypress Lodge, September 1962. Fairhurst Collection.

Fish fries were a good reason for a get-together, whether it was an informal gathering of friends or an official event organized by the ALCC. Carol recalled taking either a dock with a motor or a boat out on Alta Lake and motoring around while people caught fish and they barbecued them on the spot.

John Burge, whose family first stayed at Cypress Lodge in 1956 and then built their own cabin to visit each summer, remembered the ALCC Fish Derby and the big community fish fries that would happen at the end of the summer. Though John didn’t enjoy fishing, his parents did. According to him, “If they got a big fish, they would… take it to Dick [Fairhurst] at Cypress Lodge and it would be frozen. Whoever got the biggest fish would win a prize at the end of the summer.” Although he didn’t recall the specific prize, the 1959 ALCC newsletter announced that the Fish Derby prize would be $10 for the largest Rainbow trout caught in Alta Lake “by any legal method.” All of the fish that had been saved from July through September would be thawed and cooked and eaten on the grass at the Cypress Lodge point.

Other competitions also took place during events at Cypress Lodge, such as pie eating contests. Fairhurst Collection.

As skiing and winters became more popular, fishing and summers became less prominent. Today there are not as many fish in the lakes and creeks and all fishing in Whistler is now catch and release. Fishing is no longer the main draw for visitors but other activities like mountain biking have once again made summer a busy season for the area.

Transition PointTransition Point

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Before lifts were built and the area became known for its snow and skiing, tourism in the valley focused on the lakes and the summer months. Though various cabins from the 1920s to the 1950s can still be seen amidst much more modern homes on the shores of Alta Lake, many of the buildings from this period are gone today due to various fires and redevelopment. Some buildings, however, managed to make the transition to year-round use and can still be found today.

Dick Fairhurst began operating Cypress Lodge on Cypress Point in 1954. It started with a few cabins built by Dick and three pre-exisiting cabins and a tearoom from Harrop’s Point. Dick, his mother Elizabeth, and later his wife Kelly continued to add to and renovate the property into the 1960s. Construction began on the main lodge building in February 1963 and was completed for the 1965 May long weekend. Though Cypress Lodge had been built with summers in mind, the Fairhursts were quickly able to expand their business to include winter ski seasons. Often the cabins on the property were rented out year-round to people working in the valley. The lodge building was filled with work crews for BC Highways in summer and with skiers in winter.

Cypress Lodge while it was operated by the Faihursts. Fairhurst Collection.

In 1972, the Fairhursts sold Cypress Lodge to the Canadian Youth Hostel Association (now known as Hostelling International (HI) – Canada) for $140,000. The sale included all nine buildings on the site, including the main lodge, the cabins, and the Fairhurst’s family home on the upper portion of the property.

The property was officially reopened as a hostel in July 1973. It aimed to provide affordable accommodation to individuals and groups of travelers throughout the year. In 1973 it could accommodate 21 guests and cost only $3/person, including breakfast. Over time the hostel increased its capacity and provided housing for its staff and long term tenants. At a museum event in the 1990s, Alex Kleinman remembered his days managing the hostel in the early 1970s. Because the hostel had hot running water, he would often trade showers and a warm place to hang out in exchange for chopping firewood and making small repairs to the property from some of the people squatting nearby. When three people living in a geometric dome by the side of Scotia Creek appeared at 3 am one morning because a bear had walked through the tarp walls of their home, he provided them with a place to stay.

A group of skiers play cards in the Youth Hostel. Whistler Mountain Ski Corporation Collection.

Around 11:30 pm on December 26, 1994, one of the small two-bedroom cabins near the lodge caught fire, according to reports in the Whistler Question and Pique Newsmagazine. Luckily, there was no one in the cabin at the time as it was quickly engulfed by flames. The hostel staff evacuated the guests from the lodge and guests and staff began shoveling snow against the lodge and wetting it with a garden hose to prevent the fire from spreading. Despite their efforts, when the Whistler Fire Department arrived the fire had spread to the lodge roof. The firefighters were able to extinguish the fire but not before it had traveled through the attic bedrooms and down some of the rafters. The lodge escaped with only some charring and water damage while the small cabin was destroyed.

Alternative accommodations had to be found for the hostel guests during one of the resort’s busiest weeks of the year. The Delta Whistler Resort provided five free rooms and other hostel guests were put up by neighbours and Greg Warham, the manager of the hostel. One local resident even offered up a five-bedroom house for the guests scheduled to arrive the following week.

The Whistler Youth Hostel (and a little bit of Meadow Park) in 1989. Whistler Cable Collection.

The hostel continued to operate out of the Cypress Lodge property until July 1, 2010. Before it closed the hostel had a capacity of 28 and eight staff members. That same month, HI-Canada opened its current location in Cheakamus Crossing with a capacity of 188 and a staff of twenty. The property on Alta Lake was purchased by the Resort Municipality of Whistler and continues to be used today by the Point Artist-Run Centre and the Whistler Sailing Association.

When the Railway Came to Whistler.When the Railway Came to Whistler.

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The construction of the Pacific Great Eastern Railway (PGE) through the small community of Alta Lake greatly improved the quality of life for its residents. Starting on October 11, 1914, Alta Lake received rail service, granting easier access to services and amenities from the Lower Mainland. It also made visiting the newly established Rainbow Lodge easier for early tourists of the Whistler region. While the establishment of a railway affected the residents of Alta Lake in a direct capacity, the community also adapted and utilized the new infrastructure in innovative and unprecedented ways. 

A previous entry to the Whistler Museum’s Whistorical blog, entitled “Sparks and Speeders” showcased how maintenance and construction workers on the PGE used speeders and handcarts to traverse and repair the railway. However, the usage of such vehicles was not limited just to those who worked on the railway. Residents of Alta Lake also utilized handcarts and speeders in order to travel, both for pleasure or to simply shorten travel time. One image from the Museum’s collection shows Sala Ferguson, who moved to Alta Lake with her mother in 1923 and another unidentified girl utilizing a railway velocipede, a three wheeled handcart that ran along the tracks. 

Pictured: Sala Ferguson (on the back) and another unidentified girl using a railway velocipede. Photo Courtesy of J’Anne Greenwood.

Even after the railway had been constructed, and trips to either Squamish or Vancouver made significantly less arduous and time consuming, walking remained the primary form of transportation for those living in Alta Lake. However, instead of using the Pemberton Trail, instead, they walked the newly installed railway. While walking the rails both then and now is both dangerous and illegal, at the time, it was often an efficient way for residents to get to where they needed to be. 

Jean Tapley and Katie McGregor in 1918 or 1919, making a trip to Green River Falls via speeder. Phillips Collection.

Bob Jardine and Jenny Jardine (Betts), who first came to Alta Lake in the 1920s as a child recalled that the fastest way to get to school was to walk two and a half miles along the tracks. While their parents and other adults did warn them about the dangers of using the railroad in such a way, Bob recounted that everyone in the community was aware of how the tracks were used, stating that “the train crews kept an eye out for us kids.” As the years went on, using the tracks remained the most popular way of traveling, as John Burge, who first visited Alta Lake with his parents in 1956 recalled that “So there were only really two ways of moving around. One was the railway tracks, which was the most popular way, and the other was the back road is what we called the Pemberton Trail.” 

Pictured: Myrtle Philip with two P.G.E. Executives, John Quick and Robert Wilson, superintendent of the line. They stand next to a Ford motor car converted to ride the rails with flanged wheels. Phillip Collection

A symbol that exemplifies how the residents of Alta Lake adapted to their changing environment is the handcart built by Bob Jardine. According to Jenny Betts, the cart was built out of pinewood and was pushed along the track using handmade wooden spools, which were later replaced by metal wheels donated by another local, Ross Barr. Betts recalled that “Henry Horstman when we came, used to have a cart, it had two wheels to rune of one rail and one wheel to run on the other end, and you hat to load it with all your stuff and then you wheeled it down from the station to his farm.” Betts attributes Horstman’s cart as inspiration for their own hardcart.

Even though rail service was somewhat infrequent during the early years, the utilization of the tracks as a footpath allowed the residents of Alta Lake to improve their daily routines. This is best exemplified by how they utilized handmade carts and mechanized speeders to travel the tracks on their own terms.